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If you want to gossip with the locals in Subotica you had better brush up on your Serbo-Croatian (or the odd word in Hungarian) and for those that are linguistically challenged, you will have to contend with chatting to the young people, as they are basically the only ones speaking English.

Sitting in north Siberia, Subotica is the second largest city in the province of Vojvodina (Novi Sad is the largest). Known for its Hungarian architecture - think art nouveau - it is throbbing with hordes of students. With its unique culture and tendency to love festivals, the city is quite a lively one to explore. Once an important city in the Kingdom of Hungary, the city doesn't have that overwhelming sense of being a concrete jungle congested with traffic, that so many have.

It is a town built to put on the walking shoes and to take off, almost in any direction, as the sights are all reachable by foot power. But, do make sure you grab a bus to get to the town of Palic sitting almost on the border with Hungary - this is where the tourists hang out for the lake and some frolicking in the spa. When in Subotica do check out around the Town Hall, as this is where all the activity occurs with a Mediterranean flavor. Water-fountains gush and cafes percolate with people. You can poke your nose into one of several galleries in the pedestrian only streets and gawk at some gorgeous architecture.

This is definitely a night town with Matija Korvina being the main playground for bars and restaurants. The summer festivals happen in this area - think celebrations of food, film and music - or any other excuse to hold a party. There is a huge flea market - "Buvljak" or "Ocskapiac" - that has to be experienced at least once in a lifetime, or for a giggle have a ride in a traditional horse carriage and wave at the locals as prance by.

Take the time to sample some "burek" (pastry stuffed with various fillings such as cheese, mushroom or mince) and wash it down with some homemade snaps.

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