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When you visit Sfântu Gheorghe it is like taking a step back in time complete with potholed roads, slow trains, horse-drawn carts and stray old dogs. It is quite often referred to as the last medieval landscape to be found in Europe. Cloaked in wildflower filled meadows, vistas of lush pastures and hardwood forests, it is the land of howling wolves at night where blood-sucking vampires are ready to flash their fangs and the mythical Dracula's stomping grounds. Bordered on the east by the Carpathian Mountains, you can still see shepherds tending their flocks and wild forests appear to be totally undiscovered.

Sfântu Gheorghe sits in the heart of the Romanian region of Transylvania on the Olt River cradled in a valley between the Naraolt and Bodoc Mountains. The villages of Chilieni, Kilyén, Co?eni and Szotyor all come under its verdant umbrella. If you don't have a car at your disposal, the area is easy to get around by bus or taxi to any areas outside of the immediate town's vicinity.

If you want to learn about the local traditions then you should head to the Székely National Museum or if the urge to say a prayer or two overtakes you, there is the Fortified Church of 14th Century Gothic style to bend your knee in. You can hang out in the local market with a clock tower built in 1893 where sipping an espresso might take away the fear of any bloodthirsty vampires staking you out. The State Archive is where you can learn about the Hussar battalions, as it was their former headquarters.

Most eating places and pubs have live music to lighten your mood on a full moon night, but maybe the central park walk should be left for daylight hours. Make sure you savor some "kurtos kalacs" a Hungarian sweet pastry and down some "palinca" (alcohol) the local beverage of choice if you want a change from glugging beer.

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